【コラム】 ハイブランドとノイズミュージック — ラグジュアリーと過激音響の接点

Column en Experimental Noise
【コラム】 ハイブランドとノイズミュージック — ラグジュアリーと過激音響の接点

At first glance, the two seem unrelated.

Text: mmr|Theme: The affinity between recent fashion shows and noise music

Noise music is all about underground live houses, sweat and feedback sounds, and extreme performances.High-end brands, on the other hand, are the runways of Paris, Milan, and Tokyo, shiny textiles, and the height of sophistication. It is easy to think that the two cannot intersect. However, if you look at fashion shows in recent years, you will find that the two have built a surprisingly close relationship.


Intimacy between fashion show and noise

Since the 1990s, high-end brand shows have actively introduced not only rock and classical music, but also noise/industrial music.

Balenciaga made industrial noise roar in a ruin-like space, presenting clothing and space as ``aggressive beauty.’’

Rei Kawakubo of COMME des GARÇONS has been drawn to experimental music since the 1980s, and has layered repetition and dissonance into fashion.

Yohji Yamamoto alternated between tranquil classical music and roaring noise in his show, acoustically visualizing the “white space” and “excess” of clothing.

Noise becomes a device that emphasizes the dismantling of fashion’s existing beauty through the ``denial of harmony.’’


Paradoxical affinity — anti-commercial becomes brand value

Noise originally developed as an antithesis to capitalism and commercial music.What Merzbow and Hijikadan embody is ``outside the framework of the music industry.’’ But ironically, it’s this “anti-commercial” attitude that makes it an attractive poison for brands.

Just as Vivienne Westwood incorporated punk into capitalism, noise is also used as a ``foreign substance for brands to differentiate themselves.’‘In other words, rebellion is transformed into a nourishing source of luxury.


Anecdotes and specific episodes

The footage from Hijokaidan was used as a visual production material for a European fashion brand, emphasizing the ``coexistence of chaos and sophistication.’’

GUCCI mixed industrial noise into the campaign video, intentionally creating a conflict with classical music.

Rick Owens introduced drone-like noises to his shows in the 2010s, lulling the audience into an “uncomfortable immersion.”

Yoji Yamamoto said in an interview, ``Clothing requires silence, but sometimes a roar that destroys that silence is useful.’’


Contemporary significance — noise to create instability

Fashion in the 21st century faces the risks of mass consumption'' andhigh-speed circulation.’’ Therefore, noise emphasizes instability'' anduniqueness’’ as a counter to homogenization. Roars and noises make the audience uncomfortable and arouse, proving that the brand is a ``provocateur.’’


Brand and Noise/Experimental Music Case Studies

Brand Music/Artists used Characteristics of the production
COMME des GARÇONS Drone, noise, minimal “Deconstruction of beauty” through dissonance
Yohji Yamamoto Drone-like improvisation inspired by Keiji Haino Contrast between silence and roar
Balenciaga Industrial noise, environmental sounds Production that evokes war and collapse
Rick Owens Drone noise, low frequency sound Ritual immersive experience
Gucci Classical + electronic noise Collision of extravagance and foreign sensation
Vivienne Westwood Punk-noise sound Branding anti-establishment aesthetics
Prada Environmental sounds, white noise Symbolization of the extraordinary
Alexander McQueen Classical + electronic noise A production that symbolizes the collapse of beauty

Each brand’s approach to noise

In-depth examples of major brands and noise

COMME des GARÇONS

Rei Kawakubo pursues the affinity between “deconstruction of beauty” and noise.

Introducing drones, metallic sounds, and experimental music into the show.

Related artists: Merzbow, Keiji Haino, David Tudor, Alva Noto.

Yohji Yamamoto

A stage setting depicting the contrast between silence and roaring sound.

Influenced by Keiji Haino and improvisation.

Related artists: Keiji Haino, Keiji Haino-related improvisational unit.

Balenciaga

Full introduction of industrial noise during the Demna period.

A roar echoes through muddy runways and ruined spaces.

Related artists: Throbbing Gristle, Whitehouse, Puce Mary.

Rick Owens

Produces “ritual immersion” with drone noise and low frequency.

The sound directly shakes the audience’s bodies.

Related artists: Deathprod, Sunn O))), Nurse With Wound.

Gucci

A collision of classical music and noise, and a reverse irradiation of luxury.

Especially noticeable during the Alessandro Michele period.

Related artists: Alessandro Cortini, Fennesz.

Vivienne Westwood

Branded punk and pioneered the introduction of the noise spirit.

Based on the anti-establishment sound of the 1970s.

Related artists: Sex Pistols (Johnny Rotten), early industrial group.

Prada

Environmental sounds and white noise were introduced in the 2000s.

Fusing urban noise with “elegance”.

Related artists: Ryoji Ikeda, Oval.

Alexander McQueen

The theme is beauty and death, order and decay, and heavy use of classical music and noise.

Electronic noise also lurks in the 2010 posthumous show.

Related artists: Aphex Twin (noise/ambient side), Chris Watson.

Louis Vuitton

During the Nicolas Ghesquière era, experimental music was introduced into the show.

A fusion of urban noise and electro.

Related artists: Oneohtrix Point Never, Ben Frost.

Dior

Uses drone-like music during the Kim Jones era.

Converts noise/ambience into a luxurious space.

Associated artists: William Basinski, Tim Hecker.

Saint Laurent

Emphasizes industrial rock and noise elements.

An affinity for black leather and roar.

Related artists: Swans, Shellac.


Brand × Noise/Experimental Music Artist Comparison Table

Brand Appointed and related artists Features of production
COMME des GARÇONS Merzbow, Keiji Haino, Alva Noto Deconstructing aesthetics through dissonance
Yohji Yamamoto Keiji Haino, improviser Contrast between silence and roar
Balenciaga Throbbing Gristle, Whitehouse, Puce Mary Ruined space and violent acoustics
Rick Owens Sunn O))), Deathprod, NWW Ritual Immersive Experience
Gucci Fennesz, Alessandro Cortini Collision of extravagance and foreign sensation
Vivienne Westwood Sex Pistols, early industrial group Introduction of anti-establishment and anti-aesthetics
Prada Ryoji Ikeda, Oval Transforming city noise into elegance
Alexander McQueen Aphex Twin, Chris Watson A devastating production of beauty and death
Louis Vuitton Oneohtrix Point Never, Ben Frost Futuristic/urban experimental sound
Dior William Basinski, Tim Hecker Fusion of drones and luxury
Saint Laurent Swans, Shellac Affinity of black leather and roar

“Sound of fashion” from a noise artist’s perspective

From the noise/experimental music side, contact with high-end brands was also important.

Merzbow (Japanese noise master)…While the themes are environmental issues and anti-consumption, it is paradoxically incorporated into luxury.

Keiji Haino…Like clothing, improvisation that “deconstructs form” resonates with designers.

Throbbing Gristle…As the father of industrial, it is directly connected to the aesthetics of Balenciaga and Rick Owens.

Ryoji Ikeda…Data music and minimalism resonate with Prada’s modernity.

Fennesz, Tim Hecker…Sounds between beauty and decay are chosen by Dior and Gucci.

Sunn O)))…The ritualistic nature of drones fits into Rick Owens’ worldview.


Brand Video title Production/sound points Link
COMME des GARÇONS COMME des GARÇONS FW25 “Small Is Stronger” Suitable for deciphering the overall atmosphere of the show and the overlap between dark lighting and music YouTube
COMME des GARÇONS Spring Summer 2024 Pay attention to the sound selection and development that reveals the experimental nature of Ray Kawakubo’s period YouTube
COMME des GARÇONS Men’s SS2026 Easy to understand trends in production and spatial sound in the latest collection YouTube
COMME des GARÇONS FW2025/26 Easy to understand trends in production and spatial sound in the latest collection YouTube
Prada Fall Winter 2025/26 You can observe the synchronization of lighting and sound during Milan Fashion Week YouTube
Others (Brand Mix) Experience the Glamor – PRADA/GUCCI, etc. Useful for comparing performances across multiple brands and viewing trends in music selection YouTube
GUCCI Glamorous Catwalk Music & Elegant Fashion Show Reference video to confirm the “musical feel” of the GUCCI brand YouTube
GUCCI Glamorous Catwalk Music & Elegant Fashion Show (separate video) Comparison material for viewing separate edits, music and time structure with the same theme YouTube

COMME des GARÇONS / Gucci / Prada

Archive of materials related to “noise/experimental artists/acoustics that were actually used in shows/campaigns (or whose relationship was clearly reported)”

COMME des GARÇONS — A tradition of incorporating experimental sounds/noise into “show music”

Show / Materials Featured Artists Supplementary Points References
Comme des Garçons SS15 (collection episode such as “Red”) Drone-type sounds including Sunn O))), Earth (drone/drone metal) Dazed reported in a special feature that ``Drone-type bands (Sunn O))), Earth) were used in the SS15 soundtrack.’‘A case in point where the show’s dark aesthetic and sound are strongly connected.(Dazed) Dazed
Comme des Garçons (sound produced for fashion shows) Florian Hecker (produces music for fashion/12” releases available) There are reports that Hecker has produced several songs for Comme des Garçons, and a limited edition has been released by Editions Mego. A “contemporary sound” piece exclusively for the show. ([TheThe Wire  
SS14/Archive playlist, etc. Show playlist (mixture of experimental sounds, environmental sounds, and noise) Example of a sound collage for a show uploaded to Dazed’s SoundCloud/playlist, etc.Convenient for “verifying” show sound sources.(SoundCloud) SoundCloud

COMME des GARÇONS — FW25: “Smaller Is Stronger” (video)

Notable points (short review)

  • A low-frequency drone plays as the venue goes dark, amplifying the volume of the black with “sound” (“textural synchronization” of clothing and sound).Reference: Official video.

Gucci — “Mixed” sound production with big producers (classic x modern)

Show / Materials Artists Supplements References
Gucci (Sabato De Sarno debut show, etc.) Mark Ronson (Show music production/mix) Mark Ronson produces Gucci’s show music.An example of mixing classical music to contemporary pop/remix to create a show’s narrative (detailed interview included in the article).(Vogue) Vogue
Gucci campaign/special video (region-limited sound material) Alessandro Cortini × Daniel Avery (e.g. providing music for some projects) Cortini(Nine Inch NailsRelated) and electronic music from the same generation are being used in brand videos (there are examples of music being provided for projects aimed at China).*This does not mean that all of the brand’s shows are noise-oriented, but rather a “local selection of production.”(Facebook) Facebook

GUCCI — Sabato De Sarno (Sound: Mark Ronson)

Points to note

  • “Narrative” sound design by Mark Ronson.He creates a “time axis” by remixing traditional songs and using modern voices.Reference: Vogue interview (Mark Ronson x Gucci).

Prada — the connection point between sound director and techno/minimal

Show / Materials Artists Supplements References
Prada (Raf Simons × Miuccia / Raf period, etc.) Richie Hawtin (Plastikman) An example of Richie Hawtin’s show music during Raf Simons’ tenure.An important case where minimal/techno is layered with Prada’s atmosphere.(Vogue) Vogue
Prada (example of sound director) Frédéric Sanchez (sound director) Sanchez has been collaborating with Prada (as well as Dior, Comme des Garçons, etc.) for many years, building the “sound image” of the show.His interview article is a good resource that shows the close collaboration between brand and sound.(Vogue) Vogue

Prada — Show sound source by Plastikman (Richie Hawtin) (example)

Sound source (streaming): Plastikman — “Inxtro” (Prada 2021 Runway Soundtracks) — edm.com Points to note

  • Transferring the physicality of minimal techno to the runway.An example of sound design alongside Frédéric Sanchez.

Brand Representative video Featured artist (report/credit)
Balenciaga Balenciaga Winter 2019 — YouTube; Shows playlist — YouTube Playlist Sound design: BFRND (Show exclusive score)/Industrial sound usage example
Rick Owens Rick Owens SS26 “TEMPLE” — YouTube ; FW25 etc. (many) Drone/low frequency production.Immersive noise production can be confirmed from the show video
Alexander McQueen AW 2020 Campaign — YouTube Daniel Avery & Alessandro Cortini appointed as campaign song (song “At First Sight”)
Louis Vuitton Various show & afterparty records (example archives) — Daft Punk / Virgil Abloh’s DJ-related matters (multiple) In the past, Daft Punk provided song editing to LV and also used Dev Hynes (Blood Orange) for the score (Virgil Abloh period)
Dior Dior (various campaigns/show videos) There are many cases in which sound designers such as Frédéric Sanchez are involved, and there is a connection with ambient/drone-type production

summary

“High brand” and “noise music” seem to be unrelated at first glance. However, both share an aesthetic that deconstructs and reconstructs beauty. Noise tears apart the pretensions of luxury and paradoxically strengthens its brand value. The roar that echoes on the runways of the 21st century is proof that brands are not existences to be consumed'' butexistences that provoke.’’


🔗 [Column] History and masterpieces of Experimental Music: From its origins to the present

🔗 [Column] Noise Music — From its origins to the present: Historical background, famous records, and changes in equipment

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Monumental Movement Records

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